Fish, Please
March kicks off with Mardi Gras—“Fat Tuesday”—which paves the way for the Christian Lenten season, beginning with Ash Wednesday and culminating with Easter Sunday. Growing up in a Catholic household, every Friday during the forty days of Lent was devoted to abstinence from meat. Fish Fridays are common in places where significant numbers of people celebrate Lent. In the spirit of observing Fish Fridays throughout this month, I thought it would be fun for Lindsay and me to check out some of the places that serve the epitome of Fish Friday dishes: fish and chips.
The origin of fish and chips isn’t tied to the Christian tradition of abstaining from meat. Fish and chips is a “culinary fusion” dish originating in England in the late 1800s, combining elements from immigrant cultures: fish battered in matzo or flour and fried in oil, from Western Sephardic Jews (who came from Holland), and “chips” (potatoes cut into the shapes of small fish and fried in oil), originally introduced by Belgian immigrants. In the early 1900s, fish-and-chip shops called “chippies” became so popular in England that fish and chips shot up in prominence as one of Britain’s national foods.
In the Inland Northwest, there are several pubs and eateries that have created a name for themselves by serving their own version, some of which are rooted in British tradition, while others are locally inspired. The following are four of the best you can find.
The Crown & Thistle Pub
Located on 4th Street in downtown Coeur d’Alene, this three-year-old pub, owned by Benjamin and Jennifer Drake, is named after the British (crown) and Scottish (thistle) influences of its menu items, most of which Jennifer learned during her extended stays in both countries while in college. They offer two fish varieties: cod from the Pacific Ocean, and haddock from the Atlantic, a symbolic way of welcoming patrons from both coasts (and in between). Hand-cut and beer-battered each day using scratch-made batter, these fish and chips are served piping hot, crispy on the outside and pillowy on the inside, with freshly made fries, house-made tartar sauce, and Jennifer’s unique take on mushy peas (served cold instead of warm).
Shawn O’Donnell’s American Grill and Irish Pub
This family-owned pub, which is an off-shoot of a chain of pubs that started out in the west side of the state, took over the location of the former Milford’s Fish House on Monroe Avenue. Along with its selection of old-fashioned Irish pub fare, Shawn O’Donnell’s deliciously seasoned fish and chips are made with sustainably caught Pacific cod and breaded in-house with panko for a light crispiness. They go well with a swig of Guinness and a bowl of clam chowder.
Salty Dog Eatery
It may be a trek to go out to Deer Park for fish and chips, but if you have a hankering for halibut, then this family-owned tavern located inside an old wooden airplane hangar from World War II is worth the trip. Opened twenty-three years ago by Larry Palanio as a five-item-menu eatery, and named “Salty Dog” after the nickname given to fishing boys returning to land from a day out on the ocean, the fish-and-chips has always been the star dish. Now run by Larry’s daughter, Trisha, with granddaughter Anna as front-of-house/server, the fish (your choice of cod or halibut) is still hand-cleaned, cut, and lightly breaded each day and served with your choice of freshly made crinkle cut or steak cut fries, or delicious, perfectly crispy onion rings.
Pryor’s Restaurant
One of the longest-running diners that prides itself on its fish-and-chips and other fried seafoods is Pryor’s Restaurant in Otis Orchards. Walking into the place is like taking a ride in a time capsule, surrounded with rustic mementos from years past. Owner Kevin Pryor had been operating this eatery for thirty-one years, cleaning and cutting each piece of cod by hand and breading them with a light batter that he came up with at home with his mom, Barbara, who also works as a server along with his son, Caden. This same light batter is used on their fried shrimp and fried clams, which, served with their house-made coleslaw and tartar sauce, make for a filling lunch or dinner option for the many loyal patrons that have been frequenting Pryor’s for years.
After consuming fish and chips every other day for over a week, Lindsay and I are now ready for salads (coming next month!) but discovering these places was worth the extra miles in the car (and on the treadmill).
Ari Nordhagen is an award-winning portrait, wedding, and food photographer who is passionate about supporting locally owned businesses. Follow her on Instagram at @joyful.meandering.
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